Next Spring, Next Trends – The New York Times

Next Spring, Next Trends – The New York Times


PARIS — As the four-city show cavalcade comes to an end, here’s a look at some of the catwalk styles that could sharpen up your wardrobe in 2018.

Hats entertainment

Bigger is better was the motto when it came to the supersized straw hats on the spring runways. Brims were folded up in front; at the back, they tended to sweep down models’ shoulders and arms, taking sun protection to new lengths. Take it from us: Visors and pill boxes have been left in the shade.

Photo

Top row, from left: Stella McCartney, Roksanda and Loewe. Bottom row, from left: Balmain, Céline and Halpern.

Credit
Nowfashion (Stella McCartney, Roksanda); Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times (Loewe, Balmain, Céline); Firstview (Halpern)

Fringe movement

The festive fringe binge seen on the New York runways at Calvin Klein, Monse and Anna Sui also was on display on the other side of the Atlantic. There were tasseled trims on leather jackets teamed with minidresses and thigh-high boots; threads of beads cascading, flapper style, from evening shifts; and even entire shivering suede skirts and handbags covered in the swinging stuff, a hippie-deluxe embellishment celebrating the softer side of ’70s dressing for what feels like a tougher, harder era. Shake it, baby.

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Top row, from left, Fendi, Emporio Armani and Max Mara. Bottom row, from left, Gucci, Versace and Sonia Rykiel.

Credit
Nowfashion; Firstview (Emporio Armani)

Logo mania is back (again)

Logos were everywhere on the catwalk, with luxury brands demanding that you wear your affiliations with tongue-in-cheek pride. Blame street wear (read: Balenciaga) and sportswear (read: Nike), as was clear from the cool-kid stamping of boxy logos across T-shirts and down trouser legs, across sneakers and on caps; not to mention the resurfacing of emblems (see: Max Mara). There may be a touch of 21st-century irony involved but it can’t be lost on designers that, in the Instagram era, a message that can be read in less than a second can deliver a knockout punch.

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Top row, from left, Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani and Chloé. Bottom row, from left, Dior, Alberta Ferretti and Off-White.

Credit
Nowfashion; Firstview (Dior)

Get shorty

Few women are willing to embrace the bike short for occasions that don’t involve a saddle seat. And yet a slew of designers this season tried to persuade us otherwise, largely offering versions in body-conscious lace or patterned spandex — and notionally as after-dark attire (ahem). Less alarming were the more generous alternatives: tuxedo shorts to the knee with matching jackets or bustier tops; silky pajama shorts with belted, dropped waists; thigh-length army versions in khaki and thigh-baring denim cutoffs for day.

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From left, Lanvin, Maison Margiela and Altuzarra.

Credit
Photographs by Firstview

Cut it out

Ankle boots without backs. Knee-high boots with perforated sides. Block-heeled sandals with mid-calf straps and buckles. And so the list goes on. When it came to footwear this season, cutout leather made a big statement, giving an edgy, slightly futuristic take to long-established styles.

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From left, Marni, Maison Margiela and Balenciaga.

Credit
Nowfashion (Marni, Maison Margiela); Valerio Mezzanotii for The New York Times (Balenciaga)

Polo power

From Lacoste and Ralph Lauren, the rap scene and the world of sport, the polo shirt is a unisex wardrobe staple that long has been associated with aspiration. This season, it became an anchor of many a runway collection, sometimes oversized and androgynous, sometimes with a feminine flourish of peplums and ruffles, often striped and layered or otherwise given an unexpected update via a rhinestone-encrusted collar. Get ready to play.



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